I think my expectations were too high or my tastebuds too spoiled by the Michelin star studded restaurants in Hong Kong, but my experience at this long-standing establishment wearing the three hats was quite disappointing. Grand, mysterious decor yes, but excellent food… sadly no.
I do apologise since some of the dishes were so unmemorable that I have forgotten what I ate, but the pictures may give you an idea.
Degustation was the only option and it was set out where a series of small dishes were served as appetisers (7 to be exact), a number of main courses were given as choice as were desserts and you could choose two or three out of these selections pending on how hungry you were.
Amuse bouche- a brioche bun with filling… I can only remember it being dry.
This is their famous chicken drumstick coated in egg batter and resting in konbu butter sauce. The meat came off easily from the bone and it tasted like Japanese karaage. Not bad, but not so great to the extent where some people say they could eat a whole plate.
Spanner crab on top of toast. Quite mushy.
Pork Belly?
Prettiest dish. Their Chirashi Zushi with kingfish, tuna, squid and bonito. It was served at room temperature which enhanced the fishy flavours… you could get much better chirashi at any Japanese restaurant.
Pan-seared fish… this type of fish was too fishy for me.
Last appetiser was honey spelt bread paired with butter and ricotta. Wonderful fragrance with noticeable notes of honey.
Prior to our main course, a trolley was wheeled over and the server announced that the chef had ‘surprised’ us with roast spatchcock to be served gueridon style. While that was a lovely gesture, I wish they would have told us that beforehand so that I would have chosen a different type of meat for my main course.
The spatchcock was tender and juicy with rice stuffed inside. If the skin had been crispy it would have been even better.
To main course:
I have never had partridge before so seeing it on the menu piqued my curiosity. Slow cooked it was soft and tender with the smoothest supple skin. I loved the zatar and sesame crust which gave character to the light tasting partridge. Really enjoyable, finally a dish that showed hints of the three hats.
Pigeon zheng shui dan with prawn stuffed eggplant and strange flavour dressing. This dish evidently was to show Neil Perry’s love of infusing Chinese elements into Western cooking. Unfortunately it tasted too weird and not quite right. Mr. C did not like his dish and I think secretly wished he had ordered the beef shabu shabu.
Mum’s dish was probably the best of the evening. Saltbush lamb, cooked to a beautiful blushing pink with bold savoury flavours. I know I had food envy.
Pre-desert was rhubarb ice-cream with crumble. So simple but absolutely yummy~ I loved the ice-cream!
For dessert we just picked one to share as we couldn’t stomach one each and I knew we had to leave some room for the famous date tart. The simple looking pandan vacherin was our pick and the whole dish was just wonderfully light and refreshing, smooth coconut parfait wrapped by the crisp Swiss meringue topped with tart icy lime granita and jasmine sorbet. Lovely.
Date tarts~~~ Dating back to 1920, these are baked fresh, so fresh they are still warm when brought to the table with the custard wobbling alluringly. Rich, with a depth of sweetness from the dates, the small slice was enough to be satisfying.
Even though the dinner didn’t start off too well, it ended well. Especially loved the partridge and dessert oh and those date tarts deserve a special mention too.