Dim sum date, Tin Lung Heen take 3!

After a couple of months in Sydney, coming back to Hong Kong meant a round of dim sum was in order. We were meeting Miss E and Mr A for a lunch date and Miss E kindly made us a reservation at Tin Lung Heen.

Always a pleasure to dine in such a lovely space. So bright and spacious, I really have a thing for high ceilings~

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We left the ordering to Mr A and not too long after, our dim sum started arriving in timely succession.

Iberico pork steamed rice roll. Sweet flavourful BBQ pork tucked inside a slightly chewy rice roll wrapper.

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I recommended the Iberico pork char siu and it was only when it arrived after the rice roll that we realised we had double ordered on the char siu oops. Luckily the char siu was still as luscious and fatty as I remembered with a slight char and a sweet sticky glaze.

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A serving of abalone and roast goose tart. Tender abalone, but I found the roast goose filling a little dry.

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Pan-fried wagyu beef gyoza. Certainly a striking appearance with its web of crispiness encrusting the bottom. It wasn’t as crispy as it looked, in fact just soft and the filling had no meat juices. Just a sad, doughy, dry mouthful…

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Deep fried turnip cake in XO sauce was my favourite. Jenga chunks of turnip cake with a golden crunch and a spicy little kick from the XO sauce.

Shrimp spring roll. Thin and crunchy, I just don’t understand why they make spring rolls so thin in Hong Kong. I prefer them thicker so there is a heftier crunch when you bite into them.

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Assorted siu mai. The individual portions were a high class version of the humble siu mai topped with lobster and gold leaf, while the two in the bamboo steamer were the ‘poor’ version here topped with a big prawn and scallop. Nice and moist, a solid meaty mouthful.

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Contemplating dessert, it is always a bonus to dine with Mr C and Mr A as no sooner when we asked for the dessert menu, they said dessert had been organised for us 🙂

I was most excited to see the fried sesame dumpling, crunchy and piping hot with a creamy custard filling. The mango cream, pomelo, aloe vera and sago dessert had a fresh mango flavour and the juicy aloe vera pieces were a nice textural surprise. Osmanthus jelly was subtly sweet, nice and cooling and the little almond cookie was a nice finishing touch.

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Quite enjoyable, and dessert was much appreciated!

102/F, The Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Road West, TST

Sky high dim sum @ Tin Lung Heen

Having been here twice previously, the last visit a little less than a year ago, I have had disappointing experiences. Yes the views are amazing, but the dim sum were sadly lacking. I did at one point consider not returning, but when I heard Tin Lung Heen was awarded two Michelin stars this year, it did pique my interest, as surely they must have improved significantly to warrant this achievement. Thus intrigued, Mr. C and I booked for a Sunday lunch, inviting Mr. LC and Miss D to join us.

I was delighted to see that they served honeyed walnuts as welcome appetisers as they are my absolute favourite. They did not do so before, but I guess now that they are two stars, there are certain things they must offer to guests. 

We left the ordering to Mr. C who went overboard as usual, but I guess that is part of the fun when eating with him :p
Our lunch~
Fried prawn toasts: Supposedly this dish is not normally served at many places so Mr. C was quite keen to order this. I only had a small bite, the prawn was fresh and the toast was fried to a nice crunch.  It was a little oily for my liking but the accompanying sweet and sour sauce helped cut through the heaviness.

Iberian BBQ pork: This is a signature dish and wow it was amazing~ Cut thickly, it was supremely tender and juicy with a slight layer of fat adding to the richness of the flavour. Recommended!

Steamed layered sponge cake: Soft and pillowy, it had a lovely caramelised sugar flavour.

Cheese and crab tartlettes: Baked to a golden brown they seemed extremely appetising. The short pastry was subtly sweet and crumbled nicely in the mouth. The filling was generous and quite creamy, but it was a little bland and the taste of cheese was barely detectable.

Prawn and truffle cheong fun: Slippery sheets of rice noodle encasing a sizeable, fresh prawn per section. Quite good.

Shrimp and vegetable dumplings with spicy cod roe: Certainly plump with filling, but it was a little bland and too mushy for my liking.

Vegetarian Dumplings: A mix of nicely stir-fried vegetables and mushrooms, but the glutinous skin was too thick for pleasant eating.

Scallop and egg white dumpling: Prettily presented, the scallop was still tender and not overcooked, yet the dumpling skin followed the same trend as the other steamed dumplings of being too thick.

Baked BBQ buns: Warm and toasty from the oven, these were an absolute pleasure to eat~ The bun was pillowy soft with a delightfully sweet crunchy coating encasing a filling of tender char siu pieces. These are one of the better versions I have had, but they would be even better if the filling was a little more moist.

XO sauce chicken feet: Quite a generous serving. The XO sauce was deeply flavourful and the chicken feet were braised to the point where the skin and tendons were easily sucked off the bone. Perfect~

Vegetables in superior broth: Tender young shoots of vegetables immersed in a slightly thickened broth. This fit our vegetable quota nicely.

We did not order any desserts, but we were still served petite fours of osmanthus jelly and cashew nut cookies. I did not try any as I was already very full, but the others did not seem to have much comment on them.
In terms of service, it was polite yet a little detached and there were more than enough servers to provide adequate attention to each table. However, there were little things that they managed to overlook like changing plates or forgetting to offer toothpicks at the end of the meal, but at least they kept our tea cups consistently filled. There definitely was improvement in terms of food quality, but I am unsure if it was enough to award them two Michelin stars although their prices certainly reflected their increase in status.  

New chef, different experience @ Tosca

The first time I dined at Tosca was back when the Ritz Carlton had first opened. I remembered having to make a booking one month in advance for a table of two, but left underwhelmed by a mediocre experience, especially by their poor parpadelle dish, soft and limp sheets of pasta should really not be served at a supposed fine dining Italian establishment.

Now a year later, not only has Tosca achieved one Michelin star, the Ritz Carlton has also announced just last month the arrival of Chef Pino Lavarra to take over the reins at Tosca. Chef Lavarra, the once executive chef at the two-starred establishment Rossellinis in Italy, has promised to entice diners with contemporary and innovative dishes reflecting his love for food, and Sunday evening saw Mr. C and I there for dinner hoping to be surprised.

Service was utmost friendly, from the moment the hostess guided us to our table to every waiter/waitress that served us. Menus were given to us straight away as we were seated, and looking through it did seem to have more variety than what I saw on my previous visit. Technically we did not select our courses, rather it was organised for us, which most likely ensured that we would be served their most signature or recommended dishes.

We were offered a glass of Cristal to begin the evening, light and crisp with a hint of sweetness. My favourite kind of champagne 🙂

The bread tray is then proffered to us for selection. Neatly arranged rows of lemon rolls, parmesean topped squid-ink baguettes, flaky-looking butter rolls, rosemary foccacia and cheese and tomato brioche. They certainly looked nice, but a little lacking in the flavour department and most unfortunately were not served warm. I did however like the olive oil they provided for dipping, a little thick with a relatively strong olive aroma.

Our amuse bouche was a crumbed goats cheese on a pool of celery jelly topped with red onion. The goats cheese was very smooth, with a slight sharp kick, but the crumbed coating softened quickly under the watery yet bland jelly. This was just very, very normal.

Our appetiser of San Marzano tomato looked quite typical, bright red tomato on top of a bed of mozzarella cheese and mixed greens with a layer of crisp bread. However, it was not as it seemed. The waitress explained that the tomato was actually a casing of white chocolate dyed from the red essence of the Italian San Marzano tomato and hidden inside was a mixture of diced tomatoes and tomato sorbet. Interesting concept~ This is actually the way the chef serves tomatoes to his children, which goes to show that parents would use any method to ensure their little ones eat enough vegetables 😉 All ingredients were fresh, the mozzarella was oozy, greens were crunchy, but I think I was so occupied with the cracking open and tasting of the tomato, that I did not really focus on the flavours of the other components. However, I did notice there was a sweetness with every mouthful, but this came from the crisp bread itself rather than the unsweetened chocolate.

The next dish was what they termed as a ‘Sea Tiramisu’. Intriguing name, hinting at the use of seafood elements in the making. Essentially the focus was on a carpaccio of Mediterranean red prawn outlined with a parsley-like paste, topped with a seared scallop and a spoonful of caviar. The carpaccio albeit a little chewy portrayed the prawn’s natural sweetness while the green paste was unneccesary as it was bland with a strange rubbery texture. I loved the scallop though, seared to a semi-cooked state, it was perfectly tender~ The tiramisu itself was a base of baked cereal crumble with a cream sea foam sprinkled with tumeric powder, decorated with a dried prawn. I quite liked this, the lightness of the cream melted delicately in the mouth while the cereal had a nutty puffed rice-flavour. However I found it was impossible to eat the dried prawn elegantly as it was too tough to cut with a knife and fork, and even trying to bite off a piece took a lot of effort. Bold presentation, but was only so-so for me.

Pasta was next. A green tangle of basil spaghetti, wrapped with a thin slice of swordfish and adorned with baby squid and flower petals accompanied with smears of black olive oil. The spaghetti was cooked perfectly al dente and both the squid and swordfish were very tender. They were light-handed with the seasoning so it was just right in terms of saltiness without overwhelming the delicate flavours of the other components. Simple, but I really quite enjoyed it~

When I think of raw tuna, especially the cut where the meat is burgundy red, I always recall that it has an overly strong fishy flavour which I immensely dislike. So when we were served a cut of semi-cooked Mediterranean tuna which was still extremely red in the centre I was a little skeptical of my enjoyment of this dish. Taking a bite of the meaty tuna steak, I prepared myself for the fishiness, but was pleasantly surprised that it did not appear. The tuna itself was under seasoned, but pair it with the creamy white eggplant puree you will find all the flavours there. The potato souffle was good as well, soft and not overly heavy, while the caramelised caper was a nice touch. The most unusual item to this dish was actually the big green leaf which was described as an oyster leaf, aptly named it tasted exactly like an oyster, but I could not really sense its connection with the overall dish.

Baby lamb is in season right now and that was what we were served as our last savoury course. Presented as cutlets and lamb bacon, it was accompanied with juicy white asparagus, sauteed crunchy lettuce, a crumbed ball of lamb’s liver and drizzled with a mustard lamb jus. Only one and a half months old, you could see by the size of the cutlets how small the lamb must have been and it was very, very tender. The lamb was perfectly fine, but the crumbed liver really was odd, I bit into it imagining it would be warm and the crumbed coating would be hiding a gush of melted liver, but in reality it was a cold solid ball of mashed liver rolled in crumbs. Really quite unexpected and not in a good way unfortunately.

And then it was time for dessert.

Mr. C and I were served two different items, his was chocolate based while mine was more fruity oriented. When we asked the waitress why the desserts were allocated this way, she described that the chocolate was more heavily flavoured so it would suit the tastes of gentlemen while ladies seem to prefer more fruity elements in their desserts. I would say this is a stereotype and not necessarily true as I know that I would choose chocolate in a heartbeat, but I guess everyone is entitled to their own opinion.

Since mine was I guess the lighter dessert, we started on this first. A bed of fruity, sherbet like crumbs adorned with strawberries soaked in sugar syrup, mini meringues, cassis jelly, dollops of raspberry jam, cream and a quenelle of chocolate gelato. Everything just tasted a little too sweet, and after a while it was a little overwhelming, but out of all the components I liked the raspberry jam which was frozen to a solid jelly like state giving a nice sticky texture and the gorgeously dark chocolate gelato most.

Mr. C’s dessert was an articulately structured chocolate box, but upon cracking open the lid it revealed a somewhat messy treasure of rum(?) infused dark chocolate mousse, cubes of coca-cola jelly and a scatter of torn sponge cake. When we tried to spoon up the mousse we were surprised to find it was very hard, and digging into it, we revealed that it had been partially frozen by dried ice. Only after had we each had a spoonful of the mousse did we discover balls of dried ice still inside. Technically, we should have been informed as dried ice can mildly burn skin due to its extreme coldness, but luckily we only experienced a slightly unpleasant sensation on our tongues. But back to the dessert, the mousse was seductively dark and rich, but the coca-cola jelly was really quite out of place.

To finish off a very prettily presented plate of petite fours. A selection of chocolates, macarons and mango jelly ‘floating’ on a cloud of fairy floss. I was actually more excited about the fairy floss than the rest of the petite fours and it was just as I hoped, stickily sweet and sugar-high inducing~ However, a problem with presenting items on a cloud of spun sugar, is that it becomes sticky very quickly and if you are not careful when trying to pick up a chocolate, you could very well upend the rest of the petite fours onto the table which did happen to Mr. C :p Just a note though, if wet towels had been given, that would have been most appreciated.

And please remember to order their latte, it really is quite good 🙂

Overall the experience this time was much better than before, presentation of dishes was more artistic and creative and there was absolutely no faulting the pasta this time. However, I did find that some of the components in certain dishes did not seem to work 100% well together, but maybe that is just my taste. Service was polite and attentive without being intrusive and everything was done with a smile which was really a positive aspect. Worth trying 🙂

Great view, but not so great dim sum

Tin Lung Heen. The Chinese restaurant situated on the 102nd floor of the Ritz Carlton, offering gorgeous waterviews from the floor to ceiling glass windows and essentially giving diners the sense of dining among clouds. The restaurant does not seat many tables, but the spaciousness of the layout does give patrons a more relaxed and comfortable dining experience.

I must admit the view and the setting was the main allure for me to choose Tin Lung Heen for an overdue catch up with friends, but I was also looking forward to see whether the standard of their dim sum had improved from my first visit back when the Ritz Carlton was newly opened. 
Between the three of us we ordered 6 types of dim sum:
Siu Mai. 
This looked and tasted very average. The pork was not juicy and the prawns seemed to be oversteamed. Quite disappointing.

Har Gao.
The presentation was quite pretty, snow white dumplings with a thin translucent topped with a somewhat pretentious addition of gold foil. The skin was nicely chewy, and the prawns retained the fresh ‘crunchy’ texture.

Veggie and shrimp dumpling with crab roe.
Folded into neat little dumpling parcels, this was pleasant to look at. Tastewise, the young vegetables and shrimp were fresh, the mochi skin was pleasantly chewy but the crab roe seemed to be at odds with the overall package. 

Fois Gras Lor Mai Gai (Glutinous rice)
Two plump parcels of glutinous rice topped with a sliver of fois gras. I did not try this, but looking at the empty leaf wrapping on my friend’s plates I can assume they liked it.

Abalone and goose pastry.
Essentially a short crust pastry filled with goose and topped with abalone. The pastry was baked just right, firm enough to hold the filling without crumbling everywhere and the abalone was quite tender. However the goose meat was dry and not flavourful enough.

Baked BBQ pork buns
This was actually quite good. The char siu filling was moist and not overly fatty, while the topping of the bun was slightly crunchy and sweet.

Overall, I think the food was still quite average for the price they charge. However the setting was quite comfortable and of course the company helped make it more enjoyable 🙂